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Earlier I mentioned that the stove doesn't work. This evening we took it apart.
We took out the burners and tested as much as we could with a multimeter. Our major finding was that the previous owners used this thing as a grill A LOT and never ever opened it to clean. I used this opportunity to scrub the bejesus out of a lot of it.
Anyway, the problem we've seen is this: when any of the burner controls are turned on, the "caution, it's hot" light will illuminate and that's it. The burners stay cold. We determined that the modules themselves were fine - they are of a very simple design, too, so we could quickly tell they were fine.
Next we found how to take the control unit facing off. Wow, that's a lot of wires... and a heck of a lot of grease. Sadly, the complexity has so far defeated us. We're trying to figure out, given a multimeter and a broken stove, how the thing should once have worked. There are no wiring diagrams available on the net. The stove manual, which of course we still have, is not very detailed and says only to install the stove "in accordance with local codes".
We got as far as trying to remove the top facing before we realized that was probably the only thing holding the guts of the stove up, so we sheepishly put a whole bunch of screws back in.
More on this later, I hope.
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| Interior Wiring |
We took out the burners and tested as much as we could with a multimeter. Our major finding was that the previous owners used this thing as a grill A LOT and never ever opened it to clean. I used this opportunity to scrub the bejesus out of a lot of it.
Anyway, the problem we've seen is this: when any of the burner controls are turned on, the "caution, it's hot" light will illuminate and that's it. The burners stay cold. We determined that the modules themselves were fine - they are of a very simple design, too, so we could quickly tell they were fine.
Next we found how to take the control unit facing off. Wow, that's a lot of wires... and a heck of a lot of grease. Sadly, the complexity has so far defeated us. We're trying to figure out, given a multimeter and a broken stove, how the thing should once have worked. There are no wiring diagrams available on the net. The stove manual, which of course we still have, is not very detailed and says only to install the stove "in accordance with local codes".
We got as far as trying to remove the top facing before we realized that was probably the only thing holding the guts of the stove up, so we sheepishly put a whole bunch of screws back in.
More on this later, I hope.
no subject
No broken wire from burner to the back of the controls. However, no 240 coming into the module plug blades (we didn't check behind the controls with the breaker on). We checked those before we understood which blade was which, and were confused to see around 120 occasionally. I bet you're right about one leg of the 240 being dead. (And yes, ALL burners are nonfunctional.)
How the heck do you lose one half of the power...? I guess that's a question for an electrician, unless we can see an obvious problem at the breaker box (we haven't seen anything obviously wrong there yet).
Thanks!