Monday, August 5th, 2002 01:48 pm

After a bit of rest, we were ready to ascend the cables. Someone encouraged us by saying "It's only about three hundred yards. Not that bad." I thought that would be all right; I could handle hanging on to a steel cable for three hundred yards.

At the base of the cables is a large pile of gloves. I don't know who has donated these. They help protect the palms of the hands as well as adding friction for a good grip. I found a couple of ratty but acceptable righties and was having trouble finding a usable lefty when a guy came off the bottom and tossed a matched set into the pile. I snatched them up. These had worked for him (indeed they were still a little sweaty) so I figured they must be good enough.

I'm having trouble describing the cables, so here's a picture taken by some other intrepid hiker. The horizontal lines you see are small wooden boards, maybe one-by-twos, propped up on poles driven directly into the granite face. Through the top of the poles is threaded some hefty steel cable. Two parallel lines of cables cling to the side. They're a bit less than three feet apart. The boards, or the poles themselves in places where the boards are missing, are just about the only possible place to stop and rest. Anywhere else, I found my feet would not stick at all, and I just slid right back down to the nearest pole.

The steepest part is at the beginning. Yes, it may be only three hundred yards, but a goodly portion of that is straight up. The traffic was incredible. At any given moment, there could be up to five people trying to share a board. The main flow of traffic was "drive on the right", so upward bound folks were clinging to the cable closest to the flat face of the half dome and downward bound folks were on the cable closest to the curvy side. But many agile people ignored this flow and passed on the outside, in both directions. I spent agonizingly long minutes waiting for space available on the next board. In all, I took well over an hour to ascend the cables. In hindsight I shouldn't have let the terrified kid pass me; I really was going faster than he was, and the effects he had on the traffic flow probably lasted long after I reached the top.

I was pretty scared. As I put it later, I don't have a fear of heights, but I do have a fear of falling. There's something about being unable to trust my feet on a slick rock face with mile-long drops on both sides of me, and being JOSTLED, constantly, by people swarming around... Bad. Very bad.

I heard someone reassure his hiking companion: "No one has ever died on these things." I knew this was not true, but it was not the right time to correct him, so I didn't. They were on their way down, so what they were seeing was something like this (but much more crowded). The rock in the upper two thirds of the picture is the bump and the saddle area.

Debris fell frequently. I saw three water bottles, a walkie-talkie, a lens cap, and I forget what else come bouncing down the rock. Sometimes there would be a shouted warning.

I got to the top long after Chris did, probably in part because I have less upper body strength and needed more rest, and definitely in part because I'd been foolish and let people past. He was definitely wondering what had happened to me. I admit I'd considered turning around, but there wasn't room. He yelled like a wild man when I came into sight.

The cables become less steep near the top. I staggered off them, a few steps to the side, and flattened myself on the rock for a minute or two. There it was: the top of Half Dome. I'd made it.

I never ever wanted to touch those cables again. I wondered about helicopter rescue.
Monday, August 5th, 2002 02:32 pm (UTC)
Congratuations! This is very cool.

However, it is my own worst nightmare. I am terrified of heights and of falling.

Anyhow, thanks for sharing your story.
Monday, August 5th, 2002 03:20 pm (UTC)
It's really very cool AFTER I've done it. During, I have to admit, it felt not so cool. :-)
Monday, August 5th, 2002 02:36 pm (UTC)
The amazing thing is that as incredibly bad as it was for you, you did it anyway! That
was your goal, and you did it!
Monday, August 5th, 2002 03:21 pm (UTC)
Yup! I am so happy, so proud of myself, and so relieved that I could just about cry.
Monday, August 5th, 2002 03:29 pm (UTC)
You should be proud!
Monday, August 5th, 2002 02:50 pm (UTC)
Wow! This has been so fun to read. Congratulations for making it to the top! Your story reminds me of how I felt when I climbed Angel's Landing in Zion Nat'l Park. I was by myself and scared to death, hanging off the side of the cliff, clinging to metal rings and cables. I'm sure it was not nearly as scary as your adventure but it was a big deal when I made it to the top. (On my second try a few years later.)
Monday, August 5th, 2002 03:22 pm (UTC)
Oh wow. Yours sounds plenty scary to me! Do you have any pictures of the view from the top, or of you at the top?
Monday, August 5th, 2002 04:06 pm (UTC)
Yes, I do have pictures... somewhere. The challenge would be to find them. If I do I will be sure to post one or two of them.

Here is a picture (http://www.kaibab.org/vac95/zion5.htm) of Angel's Landing from midway up the trail. The other pics are views from the top.
Monday, August 5th, 2002 04:25 pm (UTC)
Oh, wow. That's, uh... wow. Yikes.

How long's the trail?
Monday, August 5th, 2002 04:30 pm (UTC)
According to this (http://www.americansouthwest.net/utah/zion/angels_landing.html) it's a 2-1/2 mile trail that ascends 1700 feet to the top of a 6000 foot peak. The author also says he doesn't think the chains were necessary! He must be high! I don't think I could have done it without the chains.

Time to plan your next hike!

:o)
Monday, August 5th, 2002 05:21 pm (UTC)
I admit it does sound terrific. His description of "feels like the top of the world" is just like how I felt at the top of Half Dome. There are indeed higher things in the distance, but I felt like I was on the highest point in the universe.
Monday, August 5th, 2002 03:40 pm (UTC)
*applause*
Monday, August 5th, 2002 04:25 pm (UTC)
*bow* :-)
Monday, August 5th, 2002 03:43 pm (UTC)
oh, wow. amazing. that would scare me for several reasons, and the many other people would be one of them; i hate to hike when other people are waiting for me, or might get injured if i do something stupid. and while i am not at all afraid of heights, and handle going up even steep stuff pretty well, albeit slowly, going down is just *brrrr* for me.

totally cool. you did it! overcoming fear to do something always counts way more for me than just doing it.
Monday, August 5th, 2002 04:29 pm (UTC)
overcoming fear to do something always counts way more for me than just doing it.

Same here. Similarly, working hard to achieve a goal counts way more for me than just doing it on a whim, no matter what the goal. If there's someone out there who can skip up Half Dome and back before lunch, and someone else who (like me) exercised for weeks leading up to it and planned and prepared, and they both climb Half Dome, I have more respect for the achievement of the second one.
Monday, August 5th, 2002 05:53 pm (UTC)
Congrats! The steep drops would have terrified me, personally.
Monday, August 5th, 2002 06:31 pm (UTC)
Me too, at least when my feet start to slide. I don't have lots of upper body strength.
Tuesday, August 6th, 2002 12:40 am (UTC)
Definately sounds like something to look back on rather than forward to.
Tuesday, August 6th, 2002 11:01 am (UTC)
Yeah. Like boot camp, or MIT, or any of a number of things I've done. It was worth it, though, at least just the once. I'm glad I did it.