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Car mysteries
1. When my PCV valve got replaced, my engine began developing power a bit better right off the line (low speeds and heavy acceleration) but the battery/alternator warning light began to flicker.* There is a wormhole in the space-time continuum linking the PCV valve and the alternator in my car. Scientists believe this previously unsuspected phenomenon may hold the key to interstellar travel.
2. All that red stuff pooling on anything under the hood. My transmission fluid level is correct, despite the fact that it had been months since I'd checked it. However, there is unquestionably a large amount of transmission fluid all over my engine and the floor of my garage. Evidently my car is producing new transmission fluid in its bone marrow. I had to fight off a leukemia researcher who was trying to steal it this morning.
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* Yes folks, looks like my car is eating another alternator. If this follows the usual pattern, the problem won't be bad enough that the mechanic can detect it until at least autumn. It'll be the voltage regulator again -- it usually is.
2. All that red stuff pooling on anything under the hood. My transmission fluid level is correct, despite the fact that it had been months since I'd checked it. However, there is unquestionably a large amount of transmission fluid all over my engine and the floor of my garage. Evidently my car is producing new transmission fluid in its bone marrow. I had to fight off a leukemia researcher who was trying to steal it this morning.
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* Yes folks, looks like my car is eating another alternator. If this follows the usual pattern, the problem won't be bad enough that the mechanic can detect it until at least autumn. It'll be the voltage regulator again -- it usually is.
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bloodtransmission fluid!no subject
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If you'll directly email me the above entry, plus a few other sordid details (make/model/year/mileage of the car), I'll submit the information to The Auto Seer (my husband Randy), and let you know what he says.
Randy is a professional motorhead specializing in predictive failure of automotive systems, and it's not exaggerating much to say his diagnostic accuracy and precision is exceeded on a regular basis only by NPR's "Click & Clack".
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If you promise he won't laugh, that is. The thing is now SIXTEEN years old.
(1989 Toyota Corolla. I'll put that in the mail too.)
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you get points for both technical merit (knowing the proper names) and creativity/humor, too. well, all except for that Hungarian judge. hardend old such-and-such. they never give an inch.
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A brief history of engine controls is called for:
Evolution-wise, the 80's were the last hurrah of the carburetor, as they collapsed under the weight of more and more smog controls, with which they were inextricably entangled. Problems show up as streetability issues, and they are very difficult to troubleshoot. Fact is many things can be wrong at once on a 16+ year old car. That was true on an '82 I rebuilt in '97. I fixed them all and streetability still was not good.
By 1989 most cars had basic fuel injection systems that spanked carburetors, but could still have streetability issues. A sensor could fail and they wouldn't necessarily know it. Computer: 8080.
Into the 1990's Moore's Law made computers smarter and smarter. By the mid 1990s, I think cars had the streetability you crave (and are able to keep it.) Computer: 80286.
1996 was a revolution. OBD II became law. Mandated failed sensor detection and very good diagnostics: "Intermittent misfire on cylinder 3; during coldstart/warmup; mornings only". Streetability problems - gone. If you maintain your car, the "Check Engine" light is your friend :) If you don't, it's a nag and an annoying one - you must fix it to pass smog.
So. Your car is carbureted, so keeping it streetable is going to be a tough battle. Check every sensor. Dollars to donuts some are bad. Replace them now before the dealers stop being able to get parts for cars that old. I also suggest replacing each vacuum hose with new, as those often degrade subtly.
But me, I got out of the carburetor game. I drive a 1995 Kia (Ford) Aspire whose streetability is perfect. I'll NEVER go back!
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One way is fix as much as possible. Typically several things are marginal or bad, so fixing everything possible makes the one remainder much easier to identify. Get a Toyota or Haynes shop manual that shows all the underhood gadgetry for that particular model year. Identify every underhood gadget like EGR, thermal vacuum valves etc. and improvise a way to positively test each one. Most gadgets are vacuum operated. I recommend a small hand vacuum pump, and a DVM. Actuators should actuate, sensors should do something different when their state changes. Nothing should leak vacuum. Be ruthless, when in doubt replace. Buy only from the dealer, as Kragen etc. will happily sell you the wrong, miscalibrated part. Vacuum line is cheap so I recommend swapping all of it. I found 3 ruptures in vacuum lines on my '82.
Another way is replace it. Your year is right on the cusp of fuel injection for Corollas, so other 1989-1992 Corollas may have the features you like and be fuel injected.
Then there's the kit airplane (http://www.armory.com/~greymage/resume/lt1.html) method, but I'll speak more highly of that after I finish mine :-)
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I'd love to become more knowledgeable, though, and puttering about with things on a car that still has user-serviceable parts does sound enjoyable. I already have the service manual for my make/model/yr. What vacuum pump would you recommend? I'd be cool with getting one and frobbing with things until I gain enough clue to see how difficult the problem is.
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Yeah, cars are a lot of fun :) More fun is not paying $250 repair bills :)
The hand vacuum pump I'm referring to is like on a cupping set, where you can finesse how much vacuum you want... now add a gauge and a nipple for attaching ordinary vacuum hose. Kinda like this (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92474) but ignore all the stuff about brakes.
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